Good day…

Yeahhh…someone did it…!!!
Good findings and article from this website…
for those asking about Blacktop harnesses…this would help you a lot…pin outs and wiring colors included…yeahhhh…

Happy reading : Eric’s Paddock

yet I can update my AE111 ECU terminals…similar like the AE101 ECU terminals…

Good day to all,

Twice…I’ve forgotten to check the engine oil level…! Bummer ! My fault…
End results, piston ring started to worn out badly…bit by bit…
Until need to top-up the engine oil 2L every month…white blue smoke start to pour out from the exhaust…

That’s it ! Decided to rebuild it again…

Opps…Before that…a few pictures of my old setup…I’ve called her CP…

CP…Fresh from the “farm” …

I just love my Toyota Corolla…really reliable and very good car…for “Daily Driven”…

to join a convoy…

for Autocross…

have a few laps in racing tracks…safety first…don’t be a ricer !

and all of this…make we’ll a very happy owner of Corollas !

My engine history…

Last engine picture before the rebuild…

Now here’s the rebuild…done by my mech, my friend …
Date was October 2009…

The engine head…from 6speed last gen…

Left : Stim ship… …Right : Still “Virgin”

The block and the pistons…

Fully balanced…PNP…rebore and horning…

The internal parts…Toda valve spring just for sake making the picture more nicer…

Internal parts installed…

Engine Bay refreshed…cleaned and repainted, similar color with Grey TRD…

The new Engine found her new home…

Vuallaaa…it’s done…yeszaaaa…it’s aliveeeee !!!

Owh…almost forgot…the dashboard…and I’ve reset the millage counter …as we speak…I’ve run the car about 15k km already… ..time to change the gearbox oil…

Engine part done…next time i’ll post the exterior repaint post…
till then…have a nice day…!!!

Good day…

This is a very simple step by step on how to check your O2 sensor whether it is in good working condition or need a change. If you have not get yours check, please read on. If you already get yours checked and feel that this post is boring, then please jump to the following links: Girls of The Goodyear Formula Drift Malaysia

Here you go ~

1) Turn off your engine

2) Locate your diagnostic connector, and look for terminal “OX1″ and “E1″

3) Get an analog multi meter (any brand can do)

4) Select to 2.5Vdc range

5) Insert the red colour probe to “OX1″, and black colour probe to “E1″

6) Place the multi meter on the windscreen, as near to the driver side as possible

7) Start your engine

8) Wait till it reach working temperature

9) Keep your RPM at 2500

10) Observe you multi meter’s needle. It should be moving up and down, from 0 to 2/5 of full scale.

11) Time your watch, a good O2 sensor will move the needle up and down for at least 8 times in 10 sec.

If your needle move less than 8 times per 10 sec, or idle at any scale, your O2 is dead.
Change it asap to safe the world.

Have a good time!

Source : From a very good friend of mine Wong @ zerotohundred.com

Salam and Good day to all,

It’s been a while I didn’t post anything…

Well yesterday went to a tools shop, bought clips for the front hood rubber…it’s quite cheap…

out come the old clip…

come in the new one : 

All washed…ready for installations : 

Nicely done…outer rubber got 14 clips and inside rubber got 9 clips :

Vuaaallaaaa…no more rain water sips in from the front grill…cleaner engine bay…

Nothing to do at the office…got so many free time

Lay my eyes on this page :

http://www.club4ag.com/ - ECU Japan 4age 20V Silver

Hey…
Since we got AE111 Engine ECU Terminals

Why not I make myself the AE101 Engine ECU Terminals diagram …

Soo here they are…click image for bigger size…

AE101 Engine ECU Terminals (Manual)

AE101 Engine ECU Terminals (Auto)

P/S :
1) Please take note that above ECU Terminal pictures are for normal AE101, not for AE101 model 93.5…It’s a bit different…refer to the data table respectively…
2) For AE111…still on progress as need to know the wiring color…

Ever wonder what is inside our beloved VVT pulley

This what makes our Intake cam pulley advance by 30 degree with the help of OCV with the right manifold pressure, that received signal from ECU…

Thanx to Merv McCallum , Victoria, Australia , based on article source out from SQ Engineering

===================================

Then comes in VVT-i system…
Hence…the VVT-i pulley
which looks something like this :

Open the 4 bolts…this is what you see inside…

The cover plate off. During normal start or cold start…system goes to fully retard…once on operathing tempreture…system can go advance n retard back when ever needed…

More info on VVT-i noise…
VVT-i internal parts and how it works…refer to this thread - Celica Forum

==============DVVT===============

While we are talking about VVT-i, lets talk about DVVT.
which works similarly to VVT-i…

Here some brief picture of DVVT system…

Thanx to otromen from myvi forum

Click Image to Zoom in

Sensors Detail :
From top to bottom, left to right :

Water gage (water temperature sender switch) : 83420-20040 - AE111
Knock Sensor : 89615-22050 - AE11#
Oil pressure switch : 83520-35030 - AE101 and AE111
Oxygen sensor : 89465-19685 - AE111
Temperature switch (temperature detect switch) : 89428-12160 - AE111

The most troublesome sensor with faster wear and tear is the O2 sensor / oxygen sensor / lambda sensor…with life span 50k miles or 80k km…

Others…not quite sure…will try to find it…

======================UPDATE - 20/11/2008===================

Sensors locations with pictures…

Credits goes to DonnieB from http://forum.9000rpm.net , thanx !!!

More data…

Thanx to a good research made by KinLoud, from ToySpeed, New Zealand.
Original post : 4age rods ( conrods ) now with weights.

Found this new part number database…

http://www.tomco-inc.com/Catalog/tps%20sensors.pdf

20V TPS part numbers is not listed…

4AGE 20V silvertop TPS part number is 89452-12080 which is the same as 2JZGTE, 3RZFE, 2RZFE, 5VZFE -> 89452-12080 / 22080. Not quite sure about Blacktop TPS number, will get it later.

Supra 2JZGTE TPS

============================

The best part…I browse the page…and found out this cool online Catalog…

consist of Carburetion Catalog, Emissions Catalog, Klean Screen Catalog, Sensors Catalog, Oxygen Sensor Catalog, Fuel Injection Catalog and others :

source : http://www.tomco-inc.com/PDFCatalogs.aspx 

Common issue

Idling problem on most 4AGE engine is most probably due to dirty and clog ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve). By doing a simple cleaning will solved your idling problem. Dirty Throttle Body may also contribute to bad idling due to clog vacumm hole from TB, based on Mr Chin’s page here.

Basic stuffs

ISC system regulates engine idle speed by adjusting the volume of air that is allowed by-pass the closed throttle valve.

1) Stepper motor
2) Rotary solenoid
3) Duty control ACV
4) On-off control VSV

4AGE 20V uses Rotary solenoid, this is 20V ISCV :

Figure A:ISCV side view, top pipe came from air filter hose and bottom pipe out to Air Intake Chamber. The yellowish plastic on the left, there are 2 screw,unscrew it and adjust the idling.

Figure B: Part number , 22270-16030 for Silvertop and 22270-16070 for Blacktop

Location

ISCV located under the TB, right side…here :

picture taken from www.club4ag.com

or here :

original location : 20v-sensors-locations

or you can refer to my friend page, Mr Chin…here.

How to clean it ?

1) Disconnect the wiring connection and 2 hose , one from intake plenum, at the bottom side and the other one from air intake chamber.

here are the hose from air intake chamber, the biggest hose, in the middle of the picture.

2) Once both hose has been disconnected, put a bottle or any container at the bottom hose (from intake plenum side)…it might be cramp a bit, remove the air filter intake hose would make it easier…no hassle for those using velocity stacks…

once done…spray with carburetor cleaner from the top hose, from air intake chamber…

All the dirty carbon and black particuls came out and fill the container…once satisfied…put everthing in reverse order…remove all tools…start the engine…

wallaa…better idling…

This is what I get after the 1st attempt…wow…!

Then the 2nd attempt…much better…

Good luck and happy DIYing…!

=====================Updated from March 2008======================

Good day…
Under certain circumstances…after cleaning your ISCV the idling still didn’t change much, it may due to other related things…
Which I can think of are :

1) ISCV magnetic part , the yellowish thinggy is totally condemned. Solutions : Replace you ISCV

2) TPS may need to be re-calibrate. Solutions : Will post on how to DIY it, or you may Google for it. Lots of page or Forum have discussed it.

or

3) ISCV wasn’t properly clean, still got a few residue inside. Solutions : Jeng jeng jenggggg !!! Please read more…Oyeh oyeh…

Ok…now there will be the time where above mentioned method won’t work, as the residue gets too thick to be clean that way…
So you have to totally take it out.

How ?

Kindly read on this : Twincam.org

Credit to TERRA Operative.

Now since you’ve read it all…

Don’t forget to do the marking on this part :
(between the “metal slider” n ISCV body)

Now…Here’s the bits and pieces of what ISCV, up close…

Now on the main ISCV body, there’s a small raotray “nipple” on the right side of it.
Try to turn it, you might feel some hesitation.

It due to this culprit :

(Close position)

(Open position)

After you’ve cleaned it with a Carb Cleaner…you can feel, there’s no more hesitations. Free play…woo hooo ! Done !
Here the carbon-clogging-dirt-make-our-idling-sucks stuffs :

(ignore the water droplets)

Put it back all together in reverse steps, make sure everthing connected as it is. Then start the engine, see how’s the results.

Happy DIYing… !