4A-GE 20V Enthusiast

Nothing to do at the office…got so many free time

Lay my eyes on this page :

http://www.club4ag.com/ - ECU Japan 4age 20V Silver

Hey…
Since we got AE111 Engine ECU Terminals

Why not I make myself the AE101 Engine ECU Terminals diagram …

Soo here they are…click image for bigger size…

AE101 Engine ECU Terminals (Manual)

AE101 Engine ECU Terminals (Auto)

P/S :
1) Please take note that above ECU Terminal pictures are for normal AE101, not for AE101 model 93.5…It’s a bit different…refer to the data table respectively…
2) For AE111…still on progress as need to know the wiring color…

Ever wonder what is inside our beloved VVT pulley

This what makes our Intake cam pulley advance by 30 degree with the help of OCV with the right manifold pressure, that received signal from ECU…

Thanx to DonnieB from hhttp://forum.9000rpm.net

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Then comes in VVT-i system…
Hence…the VVT-i pulley
which looks something like this :

Open the 4 bolts…this is what you see inside…

The cover plate off. During normal start or cold start…system goes to fully retard…once on operathing tempreture…system can go advance n retard back when ever needed…

More info on VVT-i noise…
VVT-i internal parts and how it works…refer to this thread - Celica Forum

==============DVVT===============

While we are talking about VVT-i, lets talk about DVVT.
which works similarly to VVT-i…

Here some brief picture of DVVT system…

Thanx to otromen from myvi forum

Click Image to Zoom in

Sensors Detail :
From top to bottom, left to right :

Water gage (water temperature sender switch) : 83420-20040 - AE111
Knock Sensor : 89615-22050 - AE11#
Oil pressure switch : 83520-35030 - AE101 and AE111
Oxygen sensor : 89465-19685 - AE111
Temperature switch (temperature detect switch) : 89428-12160 - AE111

The most troublesome sensor with faster wear and tear is the O2 sensor / oxygen sensor / lambda sensor…with life span 50k miles or 80k km…

Others…not quite sure…will try to find it…

======================UPDATE - 20/11/2008===================

Sensors locations with pictures…

Credits goes to DonnieB from http://forum.9000rpm.net , thanx !!!

More data…

Thanx to a good research made by KinLoud, from ToySpeed, New Zealand.
Original post : 4age rods ( conrods ) now with weights.

Found this new part number database…

http://www.tomco-inc.com/Catalog/tps%20sensors.pdf

20V TPS part numbers is not listed…

4AGE 20V silvertop TPS part number is 89452-12080 which is the same as 2JZGTE, 3RZFE, 2RZFE, 5VZFE -> 89452-12080 / 22080. Not quite sure about Blacktop TPS number, will get it later.

Supra 2JZGTE TPS

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The best part…I browse the page…and found out this cool online Catalog…

consist of Carburetion Catalog, Emissions Catalog, Klean Screen Catalog, Sensors Catalog, Oxygen Sensor Catalog, Fuel Injection Catalog and others :

source : http://www.tomco-inc.com/PDFCatalogs.aspx 

Common issue

Idling problem on most 4AGE engine is most probably due to dirty and clog ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve). By doing a simple cleaning will solved your idling problem. Dirty Throttle Body may also contribute to bad idling due to clog vacumm hole from TB, based on Mr Chin’s page here.

Basic stuffs

ISC system regulates engine idle speed by adjusting the volume of air that is allowed by-pass the closed throttle valve.

1) Stepper motor
2) Rotary solenoid
3) Duty control ACV
4) On-off control VSV

4AGE 20V uses Stepper style, this is 20V ISCV :

Figure A:ISCV side view, top pipe came from air filter hose and bottom pipe out to Air Intake Chamber. The yellowish plastic on the left, there are 2 screw,unscrew it and adjust the idling.

Figure B: Part number , 22270-16030 for Silvertop and 22270-16070 for Blacktop

Location

ISCV located under the TB, right side…here :

picture taken from www.club4ag.com

or here :

original location : 20v-sensors-locations

or you can refer to my friend page, Mr Chin…here.

How to clean it ?

1) Disconnect the wiring connection and 2 hose , one from intake plenum, at the bottom side and the other one from air intake chamber.

here are the hose from air intake chamber, the biggest hose, in the middle of the picture.

2) Once both hose has been disconnected, put a bottle or any container at the bottom hose (from intake plenum side)…it might be cramp a bit, remove the air filter intake hose would make it easier…no hassle for those using velocity stacks…

once done…spray with carburetor cleaner from the top hose, from air intake chamber…

All the dirty carbon and black particuls came out and fill the container…once satisfied…put everthing in reverse order…remove all tools…start the engine…

wallaa…better idling…

This is what I get after the 1st attempt…wow…!

Then the 2nd attempt…much better…

Good luck and happy DIYing…!

Oil Control Valve (OCV) also known as Oil solenoid or VVT solenoid.

At first I thought it was the OCV oil ring…but since the leak came from the socket…for sure it’s the OCV itself leaks…

Symptoms  : A bit slugish during VVT engage…

Solutions : Replace OCV

For more info on OCV , click here 

click to enlarge

Physically, the original oil filter (made in Japan) printed lettering must be clear, bright and sharp. Plus the filtering look like the picture below.

Some imitation oil filter are not bright enough and even the text is blurred. The filtering system are soo different and have a few type, with steel, not vertical and so on. So be careful, the price is not that much different, but the most important thing is the filtering system.

Original Toyota Oil Filter, C6

The filtering , the original one, should look like this…

There’s also a new mentioned that C6 will stop production and will be replace with E2, made in Thailand. C5 will be replace with E1. Darn…the worst part is, the E2 model are wrapped up with steel kind of filtering, have to do some investigation and comments on this E2 that I’ve never used before.

E2 Oil Filter, made in Thailand

But this filter have a bypass valve..

If you wait too long to change the oil and oil filter, there is a danger that the oil filter might become plugged. To prevent a plugged oil filter from starving the engine for lubrication, oil filters have a built-in safety device called a “bypass valve.” When the differential pressure across the oil filter element exceeds a predetermined value (which varies depending on the engine application), the bypass valve opens so oil can continue to flow to the engine. But when the bypass valve is open, no filtration occurs. Any contaminants that find their way into the crankcase circulate throughout the engine and act like an abrasive producing accelerated engine wear.

Another option, is using the Perodua 15601-00R01 oil filter…just knew that we can use perodua oil filter…

But…i’m not quite sure whether it can be used on 4AGE or not…still looking for answers…
Please refer here : zerotohundred.com

Perodua

Dashboard Model AE101 Coupe (Trueno / Levin)

Can not control the A/C ?
Only can run at “AUTO”, no LO and HI options…tempreture also can not be control anymore…

Yup…it’s because of this fella…
The A/C Power transistor …located at the A/C Blower, under the dashboard. It controls the output voltage of the blower.

AE101 power transistor part number

Symptom :
1) Switch on A/C, poor idling. RPM drops about 0.5K…
2) Compressor makes excessive noise

The reasons :
1) Leaks
- One of the most common compressor failure is due to loss of lubricant. Most common places the leak take place are hoses, pipe connections (flange gasket and O-rings), condenser and evaporator.
- For my case, there was a leak at one of my hoses, due to that, it contributes making my compressor very unhealthy…heeeee

2) Compressor clutch problem
- the clutch is not working properly, maybe the magnetic clutch did not engages when energized, when i turn the compressor pulley, the movement weren’t so smooth…others maybe include a bad relay, fuse, wiring problem or a defective clutch
- how to determine the clutch engage or not, by jumping the clutch lead with a jumper wire from the battery, it will show if the problem is in the clutch or elsewhere. If not engaging it’s the clutch problem.
- If the clutch engages, it maybe due to clutch power supply, such as relay, fuse, wiring, switch or control module. You can detect al these by simply work backward, from the compressor to the battery to find out the root cause, mainly voltage problem.

Through out my mechanic finding, due to my compressor problems, (as mentioned in the Symptom) , it makes my cutout switch burned, all the wiring near by was caught up in flames…lucky nothing serious happened.

This is the picture of the burn-out cutout switch (I think). See the burn mark…

new compressor

3) Clutch air gap
- as mentioned before the clutch not turning very smooth and it also makes the clutch air gap reduce or wasn’t the correct gap. Through out my finding, most of clutches air gap was around 0.015 to 0.040 inch.

Soooo…with these 2 problems with my compressor and keep on ignoring to replace my compressor, it makes my compressor cutout fails to operates properly and finally it burned. Since the cutout switch burned, the future consequences are…compressor will burn, compressor belt also will burn and the worth part is the whole engine will caught up in fire, because not cutout switch, which supposed to protect the compressor from such damage. (As mentioned by the A/C specialist) .

Solutions :
Replace the faulty compressor with a new one. By doing so, the idling when A/C is on is much more better. Others that related, better acceleration during A/C is on with better FC.

Others :
Top : New Compressor
Bottom : Faulty Compressor

top picture : Faulty AE101 compressor part number and details
bottom picture : New AE101 compressor part number and details
P/S : Old model R12…better to changed to R134a, for better protection to the environment…heee