DIY Stuffs, Electronic Fuel InjectionAugust 2, 2007 9:52 pm

[DIY] - Vacuum line

Thank you to EFN (zerotohundred.com - forum) giving the idea. The idea is to get the a better reading for FPR meter reading.

Please do take note this is a setup for Silvertop using MAP Sensor. 

Previously the original vacuum line was from D directly connected to the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). The reading on the FPR was flucking, and it’s hard to get a pressure reading. Thanx to EFN’s idea, he changed the vacuum to this current setting.

A "Y" section (Vacumm reading from all 4 throttles)
B connected to E "Y" junction
C to MAP sensor
D is blocked (Vacumm reading from single Throttle)
E "Y" section

 

D section close-up

 

E "Y" section

 

A "Y" section 

 

Wallaah…once completed no more flucking AFR meter…
 

===================================== 

Comments (5)
DIY Stuffs, Handling 9:40 pm

[DIY] - JIC coilover service

 

28 October 2006

JIC Suspension-Project, the coilover I’ve been using it for daily driving and autocross. Last year my JIC leaks, the oil seal wear out…so i ask one of my Sifoo, EFN, from zerotohundred.com, regarding my problem. So we did a little DIY disassembling the JIC.We took one day for us to do it, we are newbie …but we manage to repair it…kudso to us.

A year passes a way, now my JIC leaks again, maybe the oil seal not good enough.

So the first thing I bought, is a new set of oil seal for the absorber cartridge from the oil seal shop, lucky I manage to get the desirable thickness .

oil seals details :
Left side : new set, RM10 each
- size = 20mmx42mmx7/7.5mm (better by the look)
Right side : last year set, RM3 each
- size = 20mmx42mmx10mm

both are from SOG.

The new oil seal can withstand the pressure from the coilover impact, wherelse the old doesn’t, that’s what the salesman told me. But by the look of the material, the set is much more stiffer and thicker.



see the 3mm differences…well the new set closely match the original JIC oil seal…


29th October 2006…
Now the coilover has been dismantle.
Check everything and found out that…


this little special oil seal from A1…at the bottom...

already torn out…no wonder there’s a free play and…"klakkk…klakk" sound…

The next day i went out to find the oil seal replacement , i went to suspension specialist, RS ONE for advise…to my disappointment…they don’t sell this special kind oil seal…plus they said…"if you all know how to repair it, sure i’ll close down my business…" heeee…

  Never mindsince that i needed my coilover before 4th November for autocross event, so i’ve to send it to them to repair it.
Danny from RS One asked me what’s the setting i wanted…Drag, autocross or track…so i said for autocross, a little bit soft then original, maybe 80% then stock…but he remind me that JIC spring are way too hard for soft shock absorber, so he told me that he will set it up the best he can. Soo…sent it on monday, the 30th Oct, got it by Thursday 2nd Nov.

Superb !!! The next day, put in every back in…setup alignment and chambering…then when out for a test…wow…my JIC is "alive" again…dampering was nice, no more irritating sound, better then what i’ve expected…worth it for RM400…Thanx Danny…

Almost forgot, the absorber valve…taken apart from bottom part of B1.

 

Comments (0)
DIY Stuffs, Cooling 7:37 pm

[DIY] - Air filter heat shield


Custom made Air filter heat shield…to make sure cooler air sucks into throttle body, because cooler air consist more oxygen, more oxygen more power.
Engine tempreture were taken to differentiate the tempreture.


Radiator cap tempreture : 71 Celcius

Valve cover tempreture : 61 Celcius

in between engine block and ram-air : 50 celsius

aluminium cover, closest to air filter : 48 Celcius

air filter : 47 Celcius


No much difference  in temperature due to the material that being used, need to use a better material beside this aluminium for better heat shield.

Comments (0)
DIY Stuffs, Cooling 6:05 pm

[DIY] - Radiator cooling plate

Function : to redirect the cool air from outside direct to the radiator, the effect won’t felt much during slow crusing, but on high speed, track day, autocross maybe…helps to cool of the radiator a bit…nutting much…Aluminium were used to made this cooling plate.

Comments (0)
4age Part Number, Download 5:43 pm

4AGE 20V Part Number

 

====================
 AE101 (SILVERTOP / SVT)
====================

04111-16201 GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL 01.06.1991-01.08.1994 4AGZE..AE101
0411116202

04111-16210 GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL 01.06.1991-01.08.1994 4AGE..AE101

04112-16200 GASKET KIT, ENGINE VALVE GRIND 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
04112-16210 GASKET KIT, ENGINE VALVE GRIND 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101

90311-70007 SEAL, ENGINE REAR OIL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
90311-70007 SEAL, ENGINE REAR OIL 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AGE,5AFE..AE10#

11383-15011 GASKET, ENGINE REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER 01.06.1991-01.05.1992 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10# *KIT*

15100-19036 PUMP ASSY, OIL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AG#..AE101

11291-16050 PLATE, ENGINE NAME 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101 *4agze sticker for boot*

16100-19115 PUMP ASSY, WATER 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
16100-19245 PUMP ASSY, WATER 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101

17670-16010 VALVE ASSY, AIR BY-PASS 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101

13011-16210 RING SET, PISTON 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;STD
13011-16230 RING SET, PISTON 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;STD

13013-16210 RING SET, PISTON 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;O/S 0.50
13013-16230 RING SET, PISTON 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;O/S 0.50

13101-16131-01 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;STD,MARK 1
13101-16131-02 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;STD,MARK 2
13101-16131-03 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;STD,MARK 3
13101-16140-01 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;STD,MARK 1
13101-16140-02 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;STD,MARK 2
13101-16140-03 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;STD,MARK 3
13103-16131 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;O/S 0.50
13103-16140 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;O/S 0.50

13401-16020 CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AG#..AE101

13201-19126 ROD SUB-ASSY, CONNECTING 01.10.1991-01.05.1995 4AG#..AE101

90105-10076 BOLT, FLYWHEEL SET 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AG#..AE101..MTM

90119-12127 BOLT (FOR CRANKSHAFT PULLEY SET) 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AG#..AE101

90280-05005 KEY (FOR CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR) 01.07.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#

11011-15010 WASHER SET, CRANKSHAFT THRUST 01.06.1991-01.12.1997 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;STD
11011-15020

11704-16010 BEARING SET, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;U/S 0.25

11701-16010-01 BEARING, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;MARK 1
11701-16010-02 BEARING, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;MARK 2
11701-16010-03 BEARING, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;MARK 3
11701-16010-04 BEARING, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;MARK 4
11701-16010-05 BEARING, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;MARK 5

13041-16070-01 BEARING, CONNECTING ROD 01.06.1991-01.08.1992 4AG#..AE101;MARK 1
130411607101

13041-16070-02 BEARING, CONNECTING ROD 01.06.1991-01.08.1992 4AG#..AE101;MARK 2
130411607102

13041-16070-03 BEARING, CONNECTING ROD 01.06.1991-01.08.1992 4AG#..AE101;MARK 3
130411607103

90999-73111 BUSH (FOR CONNECTING ROD SMALL END) 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AG#..AE101

13204-16070 BEARING SET, CONNECTING ROD 01.06.1991-01.08.1992 4AG#..AE101;U/S 0.25
1320416071

13265-16030 BOLT, CONNECTING ROD 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AG#..AE101
90179-09008 NUT, HEXAGON (FOR CONNECTING ROD BOLT) 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#

13405-16030 FLYWHEEL SUB-ASSY 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101..MTM
13405-16051 FLYWHEEL SUB-ASSY 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101

90916-02179 BELT, V (FOR VANE PUMP) 01.06.1991-01.05.1993 AE101..GTZ
90916-02173 BELT, V (FOR ALTERNATOR) 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
90916-02232 BELT, V (FOR FAN AND ALTERNATOR) 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
99365-21050 BELT, V (COOLER COMPRESSOR TO CRANKSHAFT PULLEY), NO.1 01.06.1991-01.05.1993 AE101..G,GT,GTAPX
99365-70840 BELT, V (FOR FAN AND ALTERNATOR) 01.06.1991-01.07.1993 4AGE..AE101
13568-19035 TIMING BELT

90916-03060 THERMOSTAT 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AG#..AE101;*WAX 82-95

28100-16110 STARTER ASSY 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;12V 1.0KW
28100-16140 STARTER ASSY 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;12V 1.0KW

19300-16011 SENSOR ASSY, CAM POSITION 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101 *CRANK ANGLE SENSOR*

90099-14091 RING, DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING O 01.06.1991-01.10.1994 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#

23209-16061-01 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;MARK BLUE
23209-16061-02 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;MARK BLACK
23209-16061-03 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;MARK YELLOW
23209-16061-04 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;MARK WHITE

23209-19015 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AGE..AE101

23801-16061 PIPE SUB-ASSY, FUEL, NO.1 01.07.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101 ***LINE FROM FILTER TO RAIL***
23901-16080 PIPE SUB-ASSY, FUEL, NO.1 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;NO.2 ***COLD START INJECTOR PIPE***
90923-01377 PIPE SUB-ASSY, FUEL, NO.1 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;NO.1 ***LINE FROM FILTER TO RAIL***
90923-01380 PIPE SUB-ASSY, FUEL, NO.1 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AGE..AE101;NO.2 ***COLD START INJECTOR PIPE***

31470-12092 CYLINDER ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE 01.06.1991-01.01.1993 AE10#..MTM
3147012093

04313-12030 CYLINDER KIT, CLUTCH RELEASE 01.06.1991-01.01.1993 AE10#..MTM

90311-34017 SEAL, OIL (FOR TRANSMISSION CASE) 01.08.1991-01.08.1998 AE10#..MTM..(F,G,GT,GTAPX,S,SJ,X)
9031134028
90311-50010 SEAL, OIL (FOR TRANSMISSION CASE) 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
9031150027
90311-25011 SEAL, OIL, NO.1 (FOR FRONT TRANSAXLE CASE) 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 AE101..MTM..(G,GT,GTAPX)
90311-30006 SEAL, OIL, NO.1 (FOR FRONT TRANSAXLE CASE) 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ

30300-1A030 TRANSAXLE ASSY, MANUAL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ *COMPLETE BOX*
04331-12080 GASKET KIT, TRANSAXLE OVERHAUL (MTM) 01.06.1991-01.04.1997 AE101..(G,GT,GTAPX)..5F
04331-12092 GASKET KIT, TRANSAXLE OVERHAUL (MTM) 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ

41301-12180 CASE SUB-ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL, NO.1 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
33403-19475 GEAR SUB-ASSY, SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN (MTM) 01.06.1991-01.04.1992 AE101..GTZ;N=30,MARK 30:35 elec

31230-20170 BEARING ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
31210-12170 COVER ASSY, CLUTCH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
31250-12230 DISC ASSY, CLUTCH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
3125012231

31236-20060 SUPPORT, RELEASE FORK 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ

47730-12420 CYLINDER ASSY, FRONT DISC BRAKE, RH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTAPX,GTZ **Twin Piston Caliper**
47750-12420 CYLINDER ASSY, FRONT DISC BRAKE, LH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTAPX,GTZ **Twin Piston Caliper**

43410-12390 SHAFT ASSY, FRONT DRIVE, RH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
43420-12390 SHAFT ASSY, FRONT DRIVE, LH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ

44610-1A420 BRAKE BOOSTER AE101

22270-16030 VALVE ASSY, IDLE SPEED CONTROL(FOR THLOTTLE BODY) 4AGE..AE101

27060-16330 ALTERNATOR AE101

22250-16110 AIR FLOW METER ( AFM ) AE101

13505-16021 IDLER PULLEY AE101

89465-19495 / 89465-12290 OXYGEN SENSOR AE101

 

 

===================
 AE111 (BLACKTOP / BT)
===================

 

1115-16111 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111 *Blacktop 20V Headgasket*

13540-16010 TENSIONER ASSY, CHAIN, NO.1 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

13568-19185 TIMING BELT, 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

19000-1A400 ENGINE ASSY, PARTIAL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111 ***BLACKTOP LONG MOTOR***

90919-01178 PLUG, SPARK 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;PK20R11

90919-01179 PLUG, SPARK 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;BKR6EP11

90919-21592 CORD SET, COIL AND SPARK, W/RESISTIVE 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

90919-02197 COIL ASSY, IGNITION 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

04111-16330 GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

15100-19045 PUMP ASSY, OIL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

16100-19285 PUMP ASSY, WATER 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

13101-16220-01 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;STD,MARK 1

13101-16220-02 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;STD,MARK 2

13101-16220-03 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;STD,MARK 3

13103-16220 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;O/S 0.50

13405-16110 FLYWHEEL SUB-ASSY 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111..MTM

13401-16020 CRANKSHAFT 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

17700-1A020 CLEANER ASSY, AIR 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

28100-16170 STARTER ASSY 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111..6F;12V 1.0KW

19100-16270 DISTRIBUTOR ASSY 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

19101-16010 CAP SUB-ASSY, DISTRIBUTOR 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

22210-16763 BODY ASSY, THROTTLE 01.10.1998-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

30300-1A260 TRANSAXLE ASSY, MANUAL 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..BZR ***6-speed***

30300-1A250 TRANSAXLE ASSY, MANUAL 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..BZG..6F

41301-12041 CASE, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE11#..MTM..(BZG,FZ,XZ)

41301-12190 CASE, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE111..MTM..(BZR,BZV) ***LSD? ***

33530-12700 LEVER ASSY, SHIFT (FOR FLOOR SHIFT) 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..6F

22270-16070 VALVE ASSY, IDLE SPEED CONTROL(FOR THLOTTLE BODY) 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111

89661-1A860 COMPUTER, ENGINE CONTROL 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..6F

82121-1N761 WIRE, ENGINE 01.04.1998-01.08.2000 AE111..6F

89420-12140 SENSOR ASSY, VACUUM (FOR E.F.I.) 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE111..BZG,BZR,BZV

83420-20040 GAGE ASSY, WATER TEMPERATURE SENDER 01.05.1996-01.08.2000 AE11#

89428-12160 SWITCH, TEMPERATURE DETECT, NO.2 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE11#

89465-19685 SENSOR, OXYGEN 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE111..BZG,BZR,BZV

89615-22050 SENSOR, KNOCK CONTROL 01.09.1998-01.08.2000 AE11#;TOYOTA

04112-16330 GASKET KIT, ENGINE VALVE GRIND 4AGE..AE111

27060-16360 ALTERNATOR AE111

89420-12070 MAP SENSOR AE111

13505-16021 IDLER PULLEY AE111 

90507-19003 SPRING TENSIONER FOR IDLER AE111

 

 

===================
BOTH AE101 AND AE111
===================

Parts are interchangeable…A.K.A interchangeable ae101 and ae111


PART NAMA
 PART NUMBER
 CROSS REFERENCE
Distributor Cap 19101-16010
Distributor 19100-16270
Igniter 89621-12050 SW20
Ignition Coil 90919-02197 3SFE, 2JZGE
Ignition Rotor 19102-74040 Beck Arnley 1737967, Kem W2052, Wells JA995
Spark Plugs 90919-01178 or 01179 PK20R11 or BKR6EP11, Nipondenso 3128, NGK 2978
Spark Plug Wires 90919-15207, 90919-15206, 90919-15205, 90919-15204 Magnecor
Coil Wire 90919-13418
Spark Plug 5 Wire Set 90919-21520
Air Filter 17801-15070 4AFE or 7AFE
Oil Filter 90915-10002 1989 Supra fits
Oil Filler Cap 12180-46010 Supra 2JZ, Stant 10113
Outer CV Boots 04438-12260 Repco 200-037
Inner CV Boots 04438-12420 Repco 100-051
Head Gasket 11115-16111 TRD, Toda
Camshaft Intake Seal 90311-40016
Intake Valve Guide Bush 11122-16030 std, 11122-16040 sub, 11123-16030 o/s 0.05
Exhaust Valve Guide Bush 11126-16010, 11127-16010 o/s 0.05
Intake Valve Seat 11132-16030 o/s 0.03, 11147-16030 std
Exhaust Valve Seat 11135-16030 std, 11136-16030 o/s 0.03
Valve Stem Oil Sear or O Ring Exhaust 90913-02092 Echo, Prius
Valve Stem Oil Sear or O Ring Intake 90913-02093 Echo, Prius
Valve Adjusting Shim (Lifter Valve) 13751-16020
Valve Cover Gasket 11213-16020, 11213-16021 sub
Cylinder Head Cover Nut, Washer 90176-08047, 90210-09016
PCV Valve 12204-11050 Standard V330, Napa 2-9405
PCV Valve Grommet 90480-18001 HELP 491036
Spark Plug Tube Gasket 11193-16010
Fuel Pressure Regulator 23280-16140
Alternator Belt 99365-80840
Intake Cam Sprocket 13050-16010
Exhaust Cam Sprocket 13050-16040
VVT Cam Valve 15330-16020 blacktop
Thermostat 90916-03090 All 4A
Accessory Belt AC & PS 99365-21060
Water Pump 16100-19245
Water Pump O Ring all 4A
Water Pump Gasket 16124-16040
Power Steering Pump 04454-12010
PS Belt Adjusting Bracket 16381-16070
Bolt Flange for Idler 90105-10334 4AFE, 7AFE, blacktop
Pin for Idler Spring Tensioner 90249-06006 4AFE, 7AFE, blacktop
Coolant Temperature Sensor 89422-35010 WELLS SU4007, BECK ARNLEY 158-0421
Oil Pressure Switch (with gauge) 83520-35030 NIEHOFF OPT24821, BECK ARNLEY 2011130

 

 

Comments (10)
Spark Plug 5:41 pm

All About Spark Plug


i) Spark plug condition
ii) Spark plug side gapping
iii) Spark plug indexing
iv) Tech Tips from NGK

i) Spark plug condition


Normal

Combustion deposits are slight and not heavy enough to cause any detrimental effect on engine performance. Note the brown to greyish tan color, and minimal amount of electrode erosion which clearly indicates the plug is in the correct heat range and has been operating in a "healthy" engine.

Mechanical damage

May be caused by a foreign object that has accidentally entered the combustion chamber. When this condition is discovered, check the other cylinders to prevent a recurrence, since it is possible for a small object to "travel" from one cylinder to another where a large degree of valve overlap exists. This condition may also be due to improper reach spark plugs that permit the piston to touch or collide with the firing end.

Oil fouled

Too much oil is entering the combustion chamber. This is often caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides. If the PCV valve is plugged or inoperative it can cause a build-up of crankcase pressure which can force oil and oil vapors past the rings and valve guides into the combustion chamber.

Overheated

A clean, white insulator firing tip and/or excessive electrode erosion indicates this spark plug condition. k This is often caused by over advanced ignition, timing, poor engine cooling system efficiency (scale, stoppages, low level), a very lean air/fuel mixture, or a leaking intake manifold. When these conditions prevail, even a plug of the correct heat range will overheat.

Insulator glazing

Glazing appears as a yellowish, varnish-like color. This condition indicates that spark plug temperatures have risen suddenly during a hard, fast acceleration period. As a result, normal combustion deposits do not have an opportunity to "fluff-off" as they normally do. Instead, they melt to form a conductive coating and misfire will occur.

Pre-ignition

Usually one or a combination of several engine operating conditions are the prime causes of pre-ignition. It may originate from glowing combustion chamber deposits, hot spots in the combustion chamber due to poor control of engine heat, cross-firing (electrical induction between spark plug wires), or the plug heat range is too high for the engine or its operating conditions.

Gap bridging

Rarely occurs in automotive engines, however, this condition is caused by similar conditions that produce splash fouling. Combustion deposits thrown loose may lodge between the electrodes, causing a dead short and misfire. Fluffy materials that accumulate on the side electrode may melt to bridge the gap when the engine is suddenly put under a heavy load.

Splash fouled

Appears as "spotted" deposits on the firing tip of the insulator and often occurs after a long delayed tune-up. By-products of combustion may loosen suddenly when normal combustion temperatures are restored. During hard acceleration these materials shed from the piston crown or valve heads, and are thrown against the hot insulator surface.

Detonation

This form of abnormal combustion has fractured the insulator core nose of the plug. The explosion that occurs in this situation apples extreme pressures on internal engine components. Prime causes include ignition time advanced too far, lean air/fuel mixtures, and insufficient octane rating of the gasoline.

Ash fouled

A build-up of combustion deposits stemming primarily from the burning of oil and/or fuel additives during normal combustion … normally non-conductive. When heavier deposits are allowed to accumulate over a longer mileage period, they can "mask" the spark, resulting in a plug misfire condition.

Carbon fouled

Soft, black, sooty deposits easily identify this plug condition. This is most often caused by an over-rich, air/fuel mixture.
Check for a sticking choke, clogged air cleaner, or a carburetor problem - float level high, defective needle or seat, etc.
This may also be attributed to weak ignition voltage, an inoperative preheating system (carburetor intake air), or extremely low cylinder compression.

Worn

This plug has served its useful life and should be replaced. The voltage required to fire the plug has approximately doubled and will continue to increase with additional miles of travel. Even higher voltage requirements, as much as 100% above normal, may occur when the engine is quickly accelerated. Poor engine performance and a loss in fuel economy are traits of a worn spark.

Source : Champion Spark Plug

ii) Spark plug side gapping

Link : http://kruger.fotopic.net/c581859.html

iii) Spark plug indexing

It’s an old trick used by old racers, the spark plug open gap facing towards intake valve / intake manifold, in an effort to "open up" the spark from air/fuel from throttle body, don’t believe it, try it yourself. Some increase of response you will feel…heeee…

iv) Tech Tips from NGK

Source : NGK tech tips page

Comments (0)
Brake System 5:35 pm

What is brake system

 

 

Brake system

 

 What is brake coefficient ?

Coefficient of Friction (µ  - pronounced “mew”) - A number measuring the “grip” of a material used in brake pads.  Coefficient of friction can vary depending on the type of material used for the brake rotor.  Typically service brakes are concerned with dynamic coefficient of friction, or the coefficient of friction measured while the vehicle is moving.  Below are a few of the main characteristics.  Depending on the desired performance, the characteristics can be minimized or maximized.

1. Speed Sensitive - Coefficient of friction typically drops as the speed of the vehicle increases.
2. Pressure Sensitive - Coefficient of friction typically drops as more clamp force is generated.
3. Temperature Sensitive - Coefficient of friction typically drops as the temperature of the brake system increases.

Engineers measure friction by its coefficient, which is calculated by dividing the force required to slide an object over a surface by the weight of the object. For example, if it takes 100 pounds of force to slide a 100-pound block of iron over a concrete floor, the coefficient of friction between the two materials is 1.0. If it takes only 2 pounds of force to slide a 100-pound block of ice over the same floor, the coefficient is only .02.

The coefficient of friction also effected from cleanliness of the pad surface and surface roughness.

Brake Fade

Brake fade is define as a decrease or loss of brake power and typically occurs in 3 ways :

i) Pad fade (Friction Material Fade)
All friction material (brake pad stuff) has a coefficient of friction curve over tempreture (as mention above). When pads reach high temperatures they can sometime can redeposit themselves on the surface of the brake pad, thus decrease of brake power. This is also described as classic glazed pad.

ii) Green fade
Green fade always directed to new brake pads. The reduction of friction also can be caused by the gasification of organic materials, it will create a gas cushion formed between pad and disk, or by the melting of the binding resins in the pad then act as a lubricant. Green fade can be overcome or prevented by doing brake bedding or bed-in. This is to boil off the resins, this I will explain later.

iii) Fluid fade

This type of fade happenes when the brake fluids inside the hydraulic caliper boils. This also produces bubles in the master brake pump container. Since bubbles compressible, it will make a spongy pedal. This kind of fade can be avoided by using DOT 4 or high grade brake fluid, even frequent changed of the brake fluid. I’ve read some page mentioned, that they spray a thermal barrier coating at the back of the brake pads, so it will isolate the heat, but i never tried it before. Would you like to give a try…?


Brake Squeal

Brake squeal happened when brake pad, brake rotor or caliper piston creates an extremely high frequency vibration between each other. There’s are a few factor that causes brake squels :
i) dust in the drums - as brake shoe wears off, dust were form in the brake drum thus make it squeals during braking - solution, open the drums, sandpaper the drum (200 grit sandpaper shouldbe fine) and then blow the dust off.
ii) cheap lining - cheap low cost lining doesn’t withstand the heat generated. The lost of friction causes it to squel and decreasing brake efficiency .
iii) hard lining - this is more common for  buses, trucks, taxis and others that use cheap, hard, long lasting brake. Due to the hard compound, lining don’t  have cushioning during braking, thus create the squeal. - solution, change the pad to better quality
iv) others - include bad brake pads, bent disk plate or drum, weak caliper piston / drum’s spring or saturated linig causes by leaking cylinder / piston kit.


Solving brake squeal


Copper-based grease

Copper-based grease, this grease is extremely resistant to pressure and heat, so putting it at the back of the brake pad may help to solve it, thus it also prevent brake fade. Here same sample of product that can help noisefree and molyslip.

Brake pad shim

Installing shim at the back of brake pad, this will eliminate the vibration as the shim absorb the vibration created.
before skimming brake


after skimming brake


Skimming your rotor for smoother surface and improve brake efficiency.
Don’t forget to run bedding proceed to bed-in the brake pads in the newly resurface disk.

 

 

 

More link on brake squeal , link1 and link2

 

Brake bleeding

Definition: This is the process of removing air bubbles from the brake system by pumping fluid through the lines. Air bubbles are bad because they compress when pressure is applied resulting in a low or spongy feeling pedal. The correct procedure for bleeding the brakes on most RWD vehicles is to start at the furthest wheel. Do the right rear then left rear brake, followed by the right front and left front brakes. On a FWD vehicle with a diagonally-split brake system, do the right rear then left front brake, followed by the left rear and right front brake. - Source : Auto Repair

Just like the mechanic do when you changed the brake pad, they said…"Pump…Press…" ("pump…tekannnn" - malay words) a few times.

..::MORE PICTURES WILL SOON COME::..

Brake bed-in

Most of us don’t know what the hack is bed-in, brake bed-in is to maximize brake performance. This normally done on the new set of brake pads, to avoid green fade (as mention earlier in brake pad section).
Normally this is how it works.

Step 1 : Make 10 stops from 50km/h down to 15km/h using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Don’t drag your pads during these stops. After 10 stops, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2 : Make 5 consecutive stops from 80km/h down to 20km/h. After 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This complete the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

During those 2 steps, brake odor will happened, this is normal and it’s part of process your pads must go through to achieve ultimate level of performance. Your front disk will look a little blueish color and smelly abit and please don’t act clever and touch the extremely hot disk, wait for it to cool off.

Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,600 km.

**Please refer to brake pad manufacture for more details and the correct way for your brake bed-in / bedding.
Link

 

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Handling 3:56 pm

Autocross Tire

Did a little bit of search here and there, read some reviews, copy paste a bit…heee…

Please do take note that this are about performance tire that mostly used on autocross, for normal daily driving only certain tire can be used, please do seek the links given to seek on review for your desire tire…

These review only can be taken as a basic guide, because tire review is very very subjective. Depends on the car setup, tire size, suspension setup, how the person drove the car, climate conditions and so on. The only to know it, is to experience it ourself.

so here is my little Humble Tire reviews notepad…emoticon

Bridgestone RE55S

- UTQG - Unknown
Reviews :
- Awesome grip and now popular with Japanese Gymkhana enthusiast. Good till end of life. I’d recommend it but its very soft and not suitable for road/street use.
Very very sticky for soft compound….!

-  POTENZA RE55S is the new commodity of the radial tire which shows high maneuverability at the time of motor sport having a match such as gymkhana and circuit travelling. As a radial tire for gymkhana competition circuit travelling of this corporation, this time, you adopted asymmetric directivity pattern for the first time, furthermore with the tire the left and the right you developed also the structure which becomes the framework of the tire respectively individually. Because of this the dry road surface actualizes the improvement of maneuverability from the first regarding the wet road surface.
In addition, as structure is optimized together in category and the temperature range and drive system etc of competition, the compound was renovated, TYPE WT TYPE TT TYPE the specifications of 4 types of SR TYPE TR were prepared. Especially, the new compound which combines the carbon of particulates diameter is adopted to TYPE TT, improvement of grip level and resistance abrasiveness is assured.

By the fact that you select the specifications which are suited for the needs of the customer from midst of the line-up of POTENZA RE55S, it is possible to assure more combat power improvement, at the time of various staging such as gymkhana competition and circuit travelling and time attack.

TYPE WT
- Gymkhana competition circuit travelling,
- Wet cryogenic

TYPE TT
- In gymkhana competition dry warm - for polar high temperature
- For circuit travelling time attack

TYPE SR
- All circuit travelling

TYPE TR
- For gymkhana competition FF car rear

- Source : Bridgestone

 

Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R

 

- UTQG - 140 A A
- Reviews : TireRack

- Rating :

Dry Wet Snow Handling Comfort Noise Treadwear Rating
4 3 0 3.6 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.4 
Rating Scale:   5 - Excellent    4 - Very Good    3 - Good    2 - Satisfactory    1 - Poor    0 - Not Applicable

source : 1010tires

Bridgestone G3

 

- UTQG - Unknown
- Reviews :
good road tires but noticed that the total width of tire thread for same equal size was smaller than the Neovas. Grips well.
- Rating : NIL

 

BF Goodrich G-Force T/A KDW-2

 

- UTQG: 300 AA A

Online survey : TireRack

- Rating :

Dry Wet Snow Handling Comfort Noise Treadwear Rating
4.8 4.2 0 4.5 4 3.5 3.7 4.1 
Rating Scale:   5 - Excellent    4 - Very Good    3 - Good    2 - Satisfactory    1 - Poor    0 - Not Applicable

source : 1010tires

BF Goodrich G Force Sport

 

- UTQG - 340 AA A
- Reviews:
Good and steady control in drifts . NICE for drifting and handbrakes

- Rating :

Dry Wet Snow Handling Comfort Noise Treadwear Rating
4.4 4.3 0 4.4 4 3.7 4.1 4.2 
Rating Scale:   5 - Excellent    4 - Very Good    3 - Good    2 - Satisfactory    1 - Poor    0 - Not Applicable

source : 1010tires

 

Goodyear Eagle F1

 

- UTQG - 220 AA A
- Reviews:
Good grip for the imported versions. I was quite impressed as I thought it was only good grip for wet. Handles well in dry too.

-Rating :

Dry Wet Snow Handling Comfort Noise Treadwear Rating
4.6 4.6 0 4.5 4.3 4.2 3.8 4.4 
Rating Scale:   5 - Excellent    4 - Very Good    3 - Good    2 - Satisfactory    1 - Poor    0 - Not Applicable

source : 1010tires

Yokohama ES100

 

- UTQG - 280 AA A
- Reviews:
Good street tires

- Spec sheet - Yokohama

- Rating :

Dry Wet Snow Handling Comfort Noise Treadwear Rating
4.7 4.1 0 4.5 3.8 3.4 3.2 3.9 
Rating Scale:   5 - Excellent    4 - Very Good    3 - Good    2 - Satisfactory    1 - Poor    0 - Not Applicable

source : 1010tires

 

Yokohama Advan Neova AD07

 

- UTQG - 180 AA A

- Spec Sheet - Yokohama

- Rating :

Dry Wet Snow Handling Comfort Noise Treadwear Rating
5 5 0 5 5 4 4 4.6 
Rating Scale:   5 - Excellent    4 - Very Good    3 - Good    2 - Satisfactory    1 - Poor    0 - Not Applicable

source :  1010tires

 

Yokohama Advan A048

 

- UTQG - 60 A A
- Reviews: NIL

- Spec Sheet - Yokohama

- Rating : NIL

 

Yokohama Parada Spec 2


- UTQG - 300 AA A
- Reviews: NIL

- Spec sheet - Yokohama

- Rating :

Dry Wet Snow Handling Comfort Noise Treadwear Rating
4.6 3.7 0 4.5 3.8 3.5 3.8 4 
Rating Scale:   5 - Excellent    4 - Very Good    3 - Good    2 - Satisfactory    1 - Poor    0 - Not Applicable

source : 1010tires

 

Falken RT215

 

- UTQG - 200 A A
- Reviews:
For autocross..not so impressive. I think its better for track use. Loses grip as the tyre threads wear too.

- Rating : NIL

 

Falken RT615

 

- UTQG - 200 A A
- Reviews: NIL

- Spec Sheet - Falken 

- Rating :

Dry Wet Snow Handling Comfort Noise Treadwear Rating
4.7 3.3 0 4.6 4.3 3.8 3.6 4.1 
Rating Scale:   5 - Excellent    4 - Very Good    3 - Good    2 - Satisfactory    1 - Poor    0 - Not Applicable

source : 1010tires

 

Silverstone EvoL 8 FTZ Sport

 

- UTQG - 280 A A
- Reviews: NIL

- Rating : NIL


P/S : Will keep on updating, if I got more info…

 

Comments (0)
Handling 3:50 pm

Bushing and tie-rod worn out

Jagajang…!!!

See what happened…

 

Ball joint torn out, sway bar link too soft, sway bar bushing got some unwanted movement and crumpel…

at first I was about to do the front set only…but keep thinking by doing so, it won’t feel that much different plus i have to do alignment and cambering all over again…so it’s better change the whole part together…at the cost of RM700…hmmmm…

after installation…run a few round the make sure the parts have properly "run-in"…the results…
better stereng response, more comfortable ride, beter handling and cornering…superb…!!!

that’s why Club4ag quoted

replacing all the suspension bushings are the best investment for proper handling

 

 

aaahhhh…i just wish this kind of setup are on my ride right know emoticon

total control on conering…better handling… 

 


 

Comments (0)
Handling 3:16 pm

[REVIEW] Yokohama Parada Spec 2 - 195/50/15

UPDATED - 18th Feb 2008 (after 1 year using it, on normal driving, autocross and so on) 

At first I was looking for Yokohama A520 which currently used on my rear tire, so I need a new pair for my front wheels…but since the Yoko’s A520 has stop production (for Malaysia’s market), the "taukeh" introduce me Yokohama Parada Spec 2 that will replaced A520…at first glance…WOWWW !!!…superb looking, well looks doesn’t means it’s good…so I called my friend to check on the Internet on reviews of this tire…so here what he found out…UTQG is better, it’s under Ultra High Performance class in Yoko’s page, price almost the same with A520 and reviews show it’s worth money to buy…

Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) :

A520 : Treadwear 180 Traction A Temperature A (side wall OK)
Parada Spec II : Treadwear 300 Traction AA Temperature A (side wall less stiffer)

So, because of the price is the almost the same, plus Treadwear and Traction better (because it’s a new tyre so they put AA grade first…but for me after using it for a year…i would give B for i :D )

My rating…out of 5…1 - Worst , 5 - Best

Handling 3, Comfort 4, Noise 4…
very worthy to buy…let it run a few hundred KM to throw a way the production "oily cover" on the tire…

later went back to check on the net on more details of the tire review…the tire is NOT unidirectional, asymmetrical… "side facing outwards"…

the only problem is the pattern grooves…it’s a little bit weird…pattern the same…but they doesn’t have the term "left side" or "right side"…take a look at it…

Full view: 

 

 

Closer view : (left side : right side)

 

During hard cornering although it do grip well…but still sometimes these tyre tend to "screem"…sidewall too soft…not so good.. i would prefer the old A520 and surely ES100 would be better…

Here are some links about the tire :

Yokohama page

TireRack reviews

Car Forum reviews

Parada Spec 2 Technical spec 

 

Some picture of the tire after hard cornering…

Under pressure : 28 - 29 psi

see the marking on the sidewall…huuu…so horrified…maybe the road debris make the marking on the sidewall… 

 

 

just the right pressure for daily driving : 31 - 32 psi 

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