4A-GE 20V Enthusiast

Common issue

Idling problem on most 4AGE engine is most probably due to dirty and clog ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve). By doing a simple cleaning will solved your idling problem. Dirty Throttle Body may also contribute to bad idling due to clog vacumm hole from TB, based on Mr Chin’s page here.

Basic stuffs

ISC system regulates engine idle speed by adjusting the volume of air that is allowed by-pass the closed throttle valve.

1) Stepper motor
2) Rotary solenoid
3) Duty control ACV
4) On-off control VSV

4AGE 20V uses Stepper style, this is 20V ISCV :

Figure A:ISCV side view, top pipe came from air filter hose and bottom pipe out to Air Intake Chamber. The yellowish plastic on the left, there are 2 screw,unscrew it and adjust the idling.

Figure B: Part number , 22270-16030 for Silvertop and 22270-16070 for Blacktop

Location

ISCV located under the TB, right side…here :

picture taken from www.club4ag.com

or here :

original location : 20v-sensors-locations

or you can refer to my friend page, Mr Chin…here.

How to clean it ?

1) Disconnect the wiring connection and 2 hose , one from intake plenum, at the bottom side and the other one from air intake chamber.

here are the hose from air intake chamber, the biggest hose, in the middle of the picture.

2) Once both hose has been disconnected, put a bottle or any container at the bottom hose (from intake plenum side)…it might be cramp a bit, remove the air filter intake hose would make it easier…no hassle for those using velocity stacks…

once done…spray with carburetor cleaner from the top hose, from air intake chamber…

All the dirty carbon and black particuls came out and fill the container…once satisfied…put everthing in reverse order…remove all tools…start the engine…

wallaa…better idling…

This is what I get after the 1st attempt…wow…!

Then the 2nd attempt…much better…

Good luck and happy DIYing…!

Dashboard Model AE101 Coupe (Trueno / Levin)

Can not control the A/C ?
Only can run at “AUTO”, no LO and HI options…tempreture also can not be control anymore…

Yup…it’s because of this fella…
The A/C Power transistor …located at the A/C Blower, under the dashboard. It controls the output voltage of the blower.

AE101 power transistor part number

Symptom :
1) Switch on A/C, poor idling. RPM drops about 0.5K…
2) Compressor makes excessive noise

The reasons :
1) Leaks
- One of the most common compressor failure is due to loss of lubricant. Most common places the leak take place are hoses, pipe connections (flange gasket and O-rings), condenser and evaporator.
- For my case, there was a leak at one of my hoses, due to that, it contributes making my compressor very unhealthy…heeeee

2) Compressor clutch problem
- the clutch is not working properly, maybe the magnetic clutch did not engages when energized, when i turn the compressor pulley, the movement weren’t so smooth…others maybe include a bad relay, fuse, wiring problem or a defective clutch
- how to determine the clutch engage or not, by jumping the clutch lead with a jumper wire from the battery, it will show if the problem is in the clutch or elsewhere. If not engaging it’s the clutch problem.
- If the clutch engages, it maybe due to clutch power supply, such as relay, fuse, wiring, switch or control module. You can detect al these by simply work backward, from the compressor to the battery to find out the root cause, mainly voltage problem.

Through out my mechanic finding, due to my compressor problems, (as mentioned in the Symptom) , it makes my cutout switch burned, all the wiring near by was caught up in flames…lucky nothing serious happened.

This is the picture of the burn-out cutout switch (I think). See the burn mark…

new compressor

3) Clutch air gap
- as mentioned before the clutch not turning very smooth and it also makes the clutch air gap reduce or wasn’t the correct gap. Through out my finding, most of clutches air gap was around 0.015 to 0.040 inch.

Soooo…with these 2 problems with my compressor and keep on ignoring to replace my compressor, it makes my compressor cutout fails to operates properly and finally it burned. Since the cutout switch burned, the future consequences are…compressor will burn, compressor belt also will burn and the worth part is the whole engine will caught up in fire, because not cutout switch, which supposed to protect the compressor from such damage. (As mentioned by the A/C specialist) .

Solutions :
Replace the faulty compressor with a new one. By doing so, the idling when A/C is on is much more better. Others that related, better acceleration during A/C is on with better FC.

Others :
Top : New Compressor
Bottom : Faulty Compressor

top picture : Faulty AE101 compressor part number and details
bottom picture : New AE101 compressor part number and details
P/S : Old model R12…better to changed to R134a, for better protection to the environment…heee

To customize the valve cover, you require these items :
i) Flat black can spray - Dove or other brand that has good wide and fast noozle output
ii) Autosol - for cleaning purpose
iii) sand paper
iv) hair dryer - for fast drying

Here are the step to DIY it..

Aftermarket valve cover. (Chop Shop condition)

Washed, sand paper and detailed it with autosol (metal cleaner)

How to get the rought surface effect of the plastic cover…?

1) just spray 1 or 2 layer of base color (depends on the thickness u want it) to cover the plastic head…

2) the final layer, spray it ranging about 22inch from the object…the further way up u spray the more rough effect you’ll get…make sure u just keep on pressing the spray noozle, swing it left n right evenly…

P/S : The flat black effect look similar like Honda Type-R RedTop colour…but never tried on red colour before…only flat black colour…maybe u guys can try it…

A closure look at the effects

Here’s the look at the engine bay…my 1st version…

Upgraded to 2nd version

Thank you to EFN (zerotohundred.com - forum) giving the idea. The idea is to get the a better reading for FPR meter reading.

Please do take note this is a setup for Silvertop using MAP Sensor. 

Previously the original vacuum line was from D directly connected to the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). The reading on the FPR was flucking, and it’s hard to get a pressure reading. Thanx to EFN’s idea, he changed the vacuum to this current setting.

A "Y" section (Vacumm reading from all 4 throttles)
B connected to E "Y" junction
C to MAP sensor
D is blocked (Vacumm reading from single Throttle)
E "Y" section

D section close-up

E "Y" section

A "Y" section 

Wallaah…once completed no more flucking AFR meter…
 

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28 October 2006

JIC Suspension-Project, the coilover I’ve been using it for daily driving and autocross. Last year my JIC leaks, the oil seal wear out…so i ask one of my Sifoo, EFN, from zerotohundred.com, regarding my problem. So we did a little DIY disassembling the JIC.We took one day for us to do it, we are newbie …but we manage to repair it…kudso to us.

	oil seals details : Left side : new set, RM10 each - size = 20mmx42mmx7/7.5mm (better by the look) Right side : last year set, RM3 each - size = 20mmx42mmx10mm both are from SOG. The new oil seal can withstand the pressure from the coilover impact, wherelse the old doesn’t, that’s what the salesman told me. But by the look of the material, the set is much more stiffer and thicker.
	see the 3mm differences…well the new set closely match the original JIC oil seal…
	29th October 2006… Now the coilover has been dismantle. Check everything and found out that…
	this little special oil seal from A1…at the bottom...
	already torn out…no wonder there’s a free play and…"klakkk…klakk" sound…
The next day i went out to find the oil seal replacement , i went to suspension specialist, RS ONE for advise…to my disappointment…they don’t sell this special kind oil seal…plus they said…"if you all know how to repair it, sure i’ll close down my business…" heeee…   Never mindsince that i needed my coilover before 4th November for autocross event, so i’ve to send it to them to repair it. Danny from RS One asked me what’s the setting i wanted…Drag, autocross or track…so i said for autocross, a little bit soft then original, maybe 80% then stock…but he remind me that JIC spring are way too hard for soft shock absorber, so he told me that he will set it up the best he can. Soo…sent it on monday, the 30th Oct, got it by Thursday 2nd Nov. Superb !!! The next day, put in every back in…setup alignment and chambering…then when out for a test…wow…my JIC is "alive" again…dampering was nice, no more irritating sound, better then what i’ve expected…worth it for RM400…Thanx Danny…
	Almost forgot, the absorber valve…taken apart from bottom part of B1.

Custom made Air filter heat shield…to make sure cooler air sucks into throttle body, because cooler air consist more oxygen, more oxygen more power.
Engine tempreture were taken to differentiate the tempreture.

	Radiator cap tempreture : 71 Celcius
	Valve cover tempreture : 61 Celcius
	in between engine block and ram-air : 50 celsius
	aluminium cover, closest to air filter : 48 Celcius
	air filter : 47 Celcius

Function : to redirect the cool air from outside direct to the radiator, the effect won’t felt much during slow crusing, but on high speed, track day, autocross maybe…helps to cool of the radiator a bit…nutting much…Aluminium were used to made this cooling plate.