Lubrication, Others, Toyota News, 20V RelatedOctober 1, 2007 12:02 am

Physically, the original oil filter (made in Japan) printed lettering must be clear, bright and sharp. Plus the filtering look like the picture below.

Some imitation oil filter are not bright enough and even the text is blurred. The filtering system are soo different and have a few type, with steel, not vertical and so on. So be careful, the price is not that much different, but the most important thing is the filtering system.

Original Toyota Oil Filter, C6

The filtering , the original one, should look like this…

There’s also a new mentioned that C6 will stop production and will be replace with E2, made in Thailand. C5 will be replace with E1. Darn…the worst part is, the E2 model are wrapped up with steel kind of filtering, have to do some investigation and comments on this E2 that I’ve never used before.

E2 Oil Filter, made in Thailand

But this filter have a bypass valve..

If you wait too long to change the oil and oil filter, there is a danger that the oil filter might become plugged. To prevent a plugged oil filter from starving the engine for lubrication, oil filters have a built-in safety device called a “bypass valve.” When the differential pressure across the oil filter element exceeds a predetermined value (which varies depending on the engine application), the bypass valve opens so oil can continue to flow to the engine. But when the bypass valve is open, no filtration occurs. Any contaminants that find their way into the crankcase circulate throughout the engine and act like an abrasive producing accelerated engine wear.

Another option, is using the Perodua 15601-00R01 oil filter…just knew that we can use perodua oil filter…

But…i’m not quite sure whether it can be used on 4AGE or not…still looking for answers…
Please refer here : zerotohundred.com

Perodua

DIY Stuffs, Others, A/C SystemSeptember 26, 2007 4:10 pm

Symptom :
1) Switch on A/C, poor idling. RPM drops about 0.5K…
2) Compressor makes excessive noise

The reasons :
1) Leaks
- One of the most common compressor failure is due to loss of lubricant. Most common places the leak take place are hoses, pipe connections (flange gasket and O-rings), condenser and evaporator.
- For my case, there was a leak at one of my hoses, due to that, it contributes making my compressor very unhealthy…heeeee

2) Compressor clutch problem
- the clutch is not working properly, maybe the magnetic clutch did not engages when energized, when i turn the compressor pulley, the movement weren’t so smooth…others maybe include a bad relay, fuse, wiring problem or a defective clutch
- how to determine the clutch engage or not, by jumping the clutch lead with a jumper wire from the battery, it will show if the problem is in the clutch or elsewhere. If not engaging it’s the clutch problem.
- If the clutch engages, it maybe due to clutch power supply, such as relay, fuse, wiring, switch or control module. You can detect al these by simply work backward, from the compressor to the battery to find out the root cause, mainly voltage problem.

Through out my mechanic finding, due to my compressor problems, (as mentioned in the Symptom) , it makes my cutout switch burned, all the wiring near by was caught up in flames…lucky nothing serious happened.

This is the picture of the burn-out cutout switch (I think). See the burn mark… :(

new compressor

3) Clutch air gap
- as mentioned before the clutch not turning very smooth and it also makes the clutch air gap reduce or wasn’t the correct gap. Through out my finding, most of clutches air gap was around 0.015 to 0.040 inch.

Soooo…with these 2 problems with my compressor and keep on ignoring to replace my compressor, it makes my compressor cutout fails to operates properly and finally it burned. Since the cutout switch burned, the future consequences are…compressor will burn, compressor belt also will burn and the worth part is the whole engine will caught up in fire, because not cutout switch, which supposed to protect the compressor from such damage. (As mentioned by the A/C specialist) .


Solutions :

Replace the faulty compressor with a new one. By doing so, the idling when A/C is on is much more better. Others that related, better acceleration during A/C is on with better FC.

Others :
Top : New Compressor
Bottom : Faulty Compressor

top picture : Faulty AE101 compressor part number and details
bottom picture : New AE101 compressor part number and details
P/S : Old model R12…better to changed to R134a, for better protection to the environment…heee


Others, Toyota News, VideoSeptember 14, 2007 3:54 pm

2JZ-GTE in AE101 body is burning tires at Bangkok Drag Avanue

Others, Toyota News, Video, 20V RelatedAugust 31, 2007 8:45 pm

It was held in Okayama International Circuit in rural Okayama, Japan.

Without counting them all, it seemed as though at least 250 AE86s made the trek out to OIC and that isn’t including the ones scattered around the parking areas surrounding the circuit.

For me so far, this is the most biggest meeting or gathering for AE86 I’ve ever heard…gee I wish I was there…

So enjoy the video…turn up the volume…and listen to the trademark sound of 4AGE engine with quad throttle…


For full coverage video and lots of cool pictures, please visit 7Tune , and awesome site.

Others, VideoAugust 29, 2007 1:04 pm

Cool…


Others, VideoAugust 20, 2007 10:22 pm

It’s Afterfire not backfire…


Source : wikipedia

Backfire - Backfire in an automobile engine typically results from various malfunctions related to the air to fuel ratio. Usually, backfiring occurs in carbureted engines that are running lean where the air fuel mixture has insufficient fuel. (”Running lean” is typically a sign of mal-adjusted carburetors or fuel injection where there is not enough fuel for the amount of air).

Common causes of back fires in the intake manifold are bad spark timing, or incorrect (usually lean) fuel ratio.

Afterfire - Afterfire occurs in engines that have an emission system malfunction (air injection system diverter valve), exhaust leak or unburnt fuel in an exhaust system in which the catalytic converter has been removed. When a driver shifts up and lets off the accelerator, the engine has a moment of running rich or with insufficient oxygen. This causes an incomplete burn which causes the fumes to explode in the exhaust system

Video example of Backfire a hick-up time 2:14 …and during 3:05 causes an afterfire…unburnt fuel…


Engine, Electronic Fuel Injection, Others, Sensors, 20V RelatedAugust 6, 2007 11:57 am


Note :
AE101 O2 Sensor part number : 89465-19495 or 89465-12290
AE111 O2 Sensor part number :
89465-19685


In 1976 , Bosch introduced what would eventually become one of the most important technologies for reducing exhaust emissions: the oxygen sensor. By 1996, Bosch had produced its 100 millionth oxygen sensor. Today, Bosch oxygen sensors are original equipment on a wide variety of European, Asian and domestic vehicles and are the No. 1 best selling brand in the aftermarket.

Oxygen sensors have been standard equipment on passenger car and light truck engines since 1980-81/ Most such vehicles have one or two oxygen sensors (two are typically used on selected V6 and V8 engines starting in the late 80s). Since the introduction of Onboard Diagnostics II (OBD II) in 1995-96, the number of oxygen sensors per vehicle has doubled (the extra sensors are used downstream of the catalytic converter to monitor its operating efficiency). Yet, as important as oxygen sensors are today, few motorists are even aware of their presence - let alone the key role oxygen sensors play in engine performance and reducing pollution. One survey found that 99.7% of all consumers did not know their vehicle had an oxygen sensor .

What does O2 sensor do ?

It is the primary measurement device for the fuel control computer in your car to know if the engine is too rich or too lean. The O2 sensor is active anytime it is hot enough, but the computer only uses this information in the closed loop mode. Closed loop is the operating mode where all engine control sensors including the Oxygen sensor are used to get best fuel economy, lowest emissions, and good power.

How O2 sensor fights pollution

Originally called a "Lambda sensor" when it was first used in fuel-injection European applications, the oxygen sensor monitors the level of oxygen (O2) in the exhaust so an onboard computer can regulate the air/fuel mixture to reduce emissions. The sensor is mounted in the exhaust manifold and generates a voltage signal proportional to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. The sensing element on 99% of all oxygen sensors in use is a zirconium ceramic bulb coated on both sides with a thin layer of platinum. The outside of the bulb is exposed to the hot exhaust gases, while the inside of the bulb is vented internally through the sensor body or wiring to the outside atmosphere.

When the air/fuel mixture is rich and there is little O2 in the exhaust, the difference in oxygen levels across the sensing element generates a voltage through the sensor’s platinum electrodes: typically 0.8 to 0.9 volts. When the air/fuel mixture is lean and there is more oxygen in the exhaust, the sensor’s voltage drops to 0.1 to 0.3 volts. When the air/fuel mixture is perfectly balanced and combustion is cleanest, the sensor’s output voltage is around 0.45 volts.

The oxygen sensor’s voltage signal is monitored by the onboard engine management computer to regulate the fuel mixture. When the computer sees a rich signal (high voltage) from the O2 sensor, it commands the fuel mixture to go lean. When the computer receives a lean signal (low voltage) from the O2 sensor, it commands the fuel mixture to go rich. Cycling back and forth from rich to lean averages out the overall air/fuel mixture to minimize emissions and to help the catalytic converter operate at peak efficiency (which is necessary to reduce hydrocarbon (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and oxides of nitrogen (NOX) levels even further).

The speed with which the oxygen sensor reacts to oxygen changes in the exhaust is very important for accurate fuel control, peak fuel economy, and low emissions. The air/fuel mixture in an older carbureted engine doesn’t change as quickly as that in a throttle body fuel-injected application, so response time is less critical. But, in newer engines with multipoint fuel injection, the air/fuel mixture can change extremely fast, requiring a very quick response from the o2 sensor.

Sensor aging

Nothing is lasts forever, O2 sensor are no execption. Time period of O2 sensor are about 30-60,000 km or 2000 key start. Mostly after that a reminder from engine check light will appear. Consult your owner manual, auto repair manual, dealer, or repair shop on what your engine lights means. (For 4AGE 20V the error code is 21).

Contiminants from normal conbustion and oil ash accumulate on the sensing element. This reduces This reduces the sensor ’s ability to respond quickly to changes in the air/fuel mixture. The sensor slows down and becomes "sluggish." At the same time, the sensor’s output voltage may not be as high as it once was, giving the false impression that the air/fuel mixture is leaner than it actually is. The result can be a richer-than-normal air/fuel mixture under various operating conditions that causes fuel consumption and emissions to rise.

How do I know if my O2 sensor may be bad

These *is not* a pointer to O2 sensor failure, just bring up the possibility. Vacuum leaks and ignition problems are the common fuel economy killer.
i)  Fuel consumption increase
ii) Engine will lost power and not rspond quickly although done the normal tuning
iii) Gas from the exhaust smell like rotten egg
iv) No more water steam look alike came out from the exhasut tip (bad engine condition also happen like this)

How can I test my O2 sensor ?

They can be tested both in the car and out. If you have a high impedence volt meter, the procedure is fairly simple. It will help you to have some background on the way the sensor does it’s job. Read how does an O2 sensor work first.

Testing O2 sensor that are installed

The engine must first be fully warm. If you have a defective thermostat, this test may not be possible due to a minimum temperature required for closed loop operation. Attach the positive lead of a high impedence DC voltmeter to the Oxygen sensor output wire. This wire should remain attached to the computer. You will have to back probe the connection or use a jumper wire to get access. The negative lead should be attached to a good clean ground on the engine block or accessory bracket. Cheap voltmeters will not give accurate results because they load down the circuit and absorb the voltage that they are attempting to measure. A acceptable value is 1,000,000 ohms/volt or more on the DC voltage. Most (if not all) digital voltmeters meet this need. Few (if any) non-powered analog (needle style) voltmeters do. Check the specs for your meter to find out. Set your meter to look for 1 volt DC. Many late model cars use a heated O2 sensor. These have either two or three wires instead of one. Heated sensors will have 12 volts on one lead, ground on the other, and the sensor signal on the third. If you have two or three wires, use a 15 or higher volt scale on the meter until you know which is the sensor output wire.

When you turn the key on, do not start the engine. You should see a change in voltage on the meter in most late model cars. If not, check your connections. Next, check your leads to make sure you won’t wrap up any wires in the belts, etc. then start the engine. You should run the engine above 2000 rpm for two minutes to warm the O2 sensor and try to get into closed loop. Closed loop operation is indicated by the sensor showing several cross counts per second. It may help to rev the engine between idle and about 3000 rpm several times.

The computer recognizes the sensor as hot and active once there are several cross counts. You are looking for voltage to go above and below 0.45 volts. If you see less than 0.2 and more than 0.7 volts and the value changes rapidly, you are through, your sensor is good. If not, is it steady high (> 0.45) near 0.45 or steady low (< 0.45). If the voltage is near the middle, you may not be hot yet. Run the engine above 2000 rpm again. If the reading is steady low, add richness by partially closing the choke or adding some propane through the air intake. Be very careful if you work with any extra gasoline, you can easily be burned or have an explosion. If the voltage now rises above 0.7 to 0.9, and you can change it at will by changing the extra fuel, the O2 sensor is usually good. If the voltage is steady high, create a vacuum leak. Try pulling the PCV valve out of it’s hose and letting air enter. You can also use the power brake vacuum supply hose. If this drives the voltage to 0.2 to 0.3 or less and you can control it at will by opening and closing the vacuum leak, the sensor is usually good. If you are not able to make a change either way, stop the engine, unhook the sensor wire from the computer harness, and reattach your voltmeter to the sensor output wire. Repeat the rich and lean steps.

Other related sites : www.my-acoustic.com

Engine, Electronic Fuel Injection, Others, Sensors, 20V Related 11:55 am

Knock sensor, is a device using piezoelectric effect, it’s also known as KNK. This knock sensor will always make sure your vehicle run close to that detonation point, and to ensure to deliver fuel efficiency and power. When engine detonation occurs, vibration of the cylinder blocks causes the sensor to generate a voltage signal. Normally 1 sensor for 4 cylinder engine and 2 sensor for 6 and 8 cylinder engine. Obviously knock sensor are critical for turbo and supercharged cars.

There are two types of knock sensors used on Toyota engines.

i) The mass type sensor, which produces a voltage output over a wide input frequency range (vibration frequency is about 7KHz). The ECU uses a filter circuit to identify between background noise and actual engine knock.

ii) The resonance sensor, is tuned into a very narrow frequency band and only produces a certain signal voltage when exposed to vibration in the range of 7KHz. The ECU requires less complicated filter curcuit with this type of sensor.

ECU Detonation Control

Below is how Knock sensor works with ECU…

when there’s a detonation taking place, it retards ignition timing until the knocking stop. The the timing advanced back to normal or calculated value. Due to this ignition system will operates at maximum performance. If the ECU noted that the knock retard is not workingm it will enter a fail-safe mode and fix the retard angle to prevent engine damage.

Here’s the location of the knock sensor on 4AGE 20V, just below the Intake manifold.
Purge Valve (top) and Knock sensor (below)

It should look something like this…

Symptoms

Drivability problems including a lack of power and perhaps some hesitation also increase of fuel consumption. There may also be other symptoms.

Causes

i) The knock sensor is faulty and need to be replaced
ii) There is a wiring shoft/failure in the knock sensor circuit. Check properly because sometimes after change the knock sensor problem or error code still shows…
iii) Also check for special ground shield that cover the signal wire running from the sensor to the sensor. The shield sourrounds the signal wire is connected to ground so if any electrical interference is taken to ground.

sometimes the engine light won’t come out, therefore no error code were found, but some say that they just replace the knock sensor thier car feel like new, in other hand they replace the knock sensor there’s not much different, later they found out that the wiring was faulty…so becarefull…

How to test a knock sensor.

i) By removing the knock sensor, check if there is no continuity between the terminal and body (based on 4A-GE repair manual, page F1-67)
ii) checking the diagnosis code



# 52 #1 Knock sensor 
  • no KNK1 signal to ECU
  • knock sensor (looseness)
  • malfunctioning knk sensor
# 53 #2 Knock sensor
  • no KNK2 signal to ECU
  • same as above

source : Club4AG

iii) used the OBDII Scan tool
iv) tapping tools or hammer on the block near the sensor (don’t hit the sensor !!!) and watch the timingchange using the timing gun or scan tool while idling, if the timing fails to retard, the sensor may be faulty, replace it. See the picture below.

Sometimes a knock sensor will react to sounds other than those produced by detonation. A noisy mechanical fuel pump, a bad water pump or alternator bearing, or a loose rod bearing can all produce vibrations that can trick a knock sensor into retarding timing.

Wiring, Others, Download, 20V RelatedAugust 3, 2007 5:19 pm

4A-GE 20V repair manual (Blacktop)
4a-GE 16V Repair Manual
Universal belts part number
4A Engine specs
7M wiring
20V wiring_a
20V wiring_b
90 Cressida
94 Supra
AE92 4AGE ECU #1
AE92 4AGE ECU #2
AE92 4AGE ECU #3
AE101 4AGE ECU diagram
AE101 4AGE 20 Valve Pins 1999
ToyoDIY part number collection
All Model Toyotas Engine Wiring Diagrams
MR2 Wiring Pages
Supra MA70 Wiring Manual
Supra MK3 Handbook
Supra Wiring
Various TOYOTA part number, diagram, wiring and others

4age 20v AE101 Wiring connections More AE111 and AE101 part numbers

OthersAugust 1, 2007 9:16 pm

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